Winter Getaway to Zagreb, Ljubljana, & Lake Bled [Part 1: Zagreb]

When people ask why I chose to go to Croatia and Slovenia for my week of winter vacation, here’s what I tell them:

1.) So don’t laugh.. I was watching Wheel of Fortune one night and saw them give away a trip to Slovenia, and thought it was gorgeous! The one time sitting around with family watching game shows paid off.
2.) I’ve been dying to go back to Europe, and I finally had time!
3.) Seems like have been a few terrorists attacks in London, Paris, and the larger European cities nowadays, and I was looking for somewhere that would be an unlikely target. Safety is always a consideration.
4.) Lake Bled looked like it was straight out of a fairy-tale online. I thought it would be incredibly picturesque to be there to view the castle and lake covered in snow.
5.) Croatia wasn’t originally on the itinerary, but it borders Slovenia and sounded interesting, so why not mark another country off the bucket list?
6.) I enjoy places that have some tourism, but won’t be crowded or super touristy. It was important to choose somewhere where language would not be a common barrier. Ding, ding, ding!

So.. off we went.

First stop:

Zagreb, Croatia

Croatia is on the east side of Slovenia. It has a lot of supposedly beautiful coastal towns, but we decided to go to Zagreb, the capital, located in the middle of the country. Currency here is in kuna. 1 USD= 6.42 kuna. One of my favorite things about Zagreb? They have Uber. The city isn’t huge, so it’s walkable. But it is easier to get to some points of town (like the cemetery) using Uber, especially when it is cold. Don’t freak out when you look at the app if you go! Uber doesn’t have as many drivers here compared to the US, but prices are unbelievably cheap. Zagreb is composed of the Gornji Grad (upper town/ historic section) and Donji Grad (lower town), with Jelacic Square (center square), located where the two meet. The architecture of Zagreb is historic and grand. It was fun to walk around both during the day to take in the buildings, and then at night to see the lights. We were here just in time for Advent, when the city is lit up with Christmas lights, and food stands, live music, and various events are found all throughout the city. It has actually been voted as the best Christmas Market in Europe for 3 years in a row. We picked a great time to be there. Zagreb is truly one of my favorite cities. I don’t know what I was expecting exactly, but my expectations were exceeded!

The stay:

Best Western Hotel Stella

Nice hotel, nice breakfast bar, helpful staff.. But overall a little out of the way. There is a bus stop located in front of the hotel that takes you directly into Zagreb, which was free and decently convenient. Hotel staff will give you a sheet with the bus route and times if you ask.

What to check out:

1.) The Museum of Broken Relationships– cute little museum located in upper town, in a baroque palace below St. Mark’s Church. It has artifacts of broken relationships plus the stories behind them. I found it interesting and sometimes humorous. Open from 9 am to 9 pm in the winter, 8:30 last entry. 40 kuna.

2.) Advent Zagreb– If you plan to visit around Christmas, don’t miss out on Advent! Check out the Christmas market, eat donut balls, go skating at the majestic ice park, see a live nativity, take silly Christmas pictures in photo booths around town, walk historic tunnels decorated entirely in lights.. For a complete list of events visit Advent Zagreb.

3.) Mirogoj Cemetery– one of the most beautiful cemeteries in Europe at the base of Mt. Medvednica. I’m weird, but I love cemeteries. This one is huge with stunning architecture, its own chapel, and so many beautiful, interesting tombs. Not to miss.

4.) Church of St. Mark’s– 13th century church with a unique tiled roof (coat of arms of Croatia on the left side and the emblem of Zagreb on the right side), one of Zagreb’s most recognizable buildings, only open during mass, but beautiful to just walk by and see.

5.) Gric Tunnel– long tunnel used as an air raid shelter for WWII, built in 1943, connects Mesnicka and Radiceva streets.

6.) Lotrscak Tower-built to guard the old town in the 13th century, this historic tower now offers amazing views of the city for a very cheap price. Cannons are fired off from the tower every day at noon. It’s rare you can get history and great views at the same time. The climb up was not very far, and steps are safe.

7.) King Tomislav Square– see the statue of Croatia’s first king, and take a look at the beautiful Art Pavilion, maybe even check out some exhibitions.

8.) The Croatian National Theatre– located in lower town, this ornate yellow building hosts operas, ballets, and plays. Check out the schedule at Croation National Theatre Schedule.

9.) Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary– tallest building in Croatia, beautiful cathedral, spires were damaged during an earthquake in 1880 but the building has been going through ongoing renovations. Outside of the cathedral you will find a statue of the Virgin Mary surrounded by angels. On the side, you will find old walls that were used to protect the cathedral, as it was originally destroyed by the Mongols.

10.) Jelacic Square– This is the center square of the city. You’ll have beautiful views here, and can get to both upper and lower town from it.

11.) Tkalčićeva Street– liveliest street in the city. Located in old town, it is lined with a variety of restaurants. Definitely where you want to go if you’re looking for a good place to eat. It feels like you are walking back in time here, but it has a couple of murals to bring it into the modern-day as well.

12.) Kamenita ulica “Stone Street”– right near St. Mark’s, this old street goes from the Stone Gate, once a medieval gate, now a shrine that contains the painting of the Virgin Mary and Child. There was a fire in 1731 that destroyed all of the gate but the painting. Now it is believed to be magical, and people come to pray and view the painting regularly. Also on this street is Zagreb’s oldest pharmacy, which I of course enjoyed seeing. It was built in 1355, and still runs to this day.

13.) Radiceva Street– charming old stone street near Stone Street that has a lot of little local shops, some souvenirs, cafes, and a nice view from the top. It leads up to the St. George and the Dragon Statue. First of all, this statue is freaking cool. The story behind it is actually what fairytales are about (just look it up). But to me what is even cooler is that it represents Christianity overcoming paganism. A true work of art.

The grub:

Honestly, most of the trip we ate continental breakfast at the hotel. Croatia and Slovenia know how to do hotel breakfasts. Most were huge buffets with really good food. Save your money and time and grab something before you venture out for a day in the city!

1.) La Struk– I love trying out new dishes that are true to a country’s culture, so this was the place. Strukli is a very popular dish in Zagreb.  It’s a pastry filled with cottage cheese and sour cream. La Struk offers tasty variations of the popular dish. I had the apple cinnamon, and it tasted a lot like a cinnamon roll without a lot of sugar. One is big enough to share between two people! Inexpensive and a great place to have dessert.

2.) Boban– Mediterranean seafood restaurant. It had a nice ambiance and a pretty interior. I could go to eat the fish they served us as an appetizer alone. Shrimp risotto was decent.

3.) Kod Mike– Another restaurant with a variety of cultural dishes. I had the ćevapčići, a common sausage of southeastern Europe. Quaint little restaurant.. almost like a Cracker Barrel of Croatia. haha

Like I said, I loved Zagreb! Sure the outskirts of town were a little Soviet-Union-ish.. But inside the city was unlike anywhere I’ve been before. I love the history and the culture the capital of Croatia has to offer.

Up next: Ljubljana, Slovenia (see Part 2 coming soon)