I was awful about documenting my travels this past year. Overall I laid eyes on 4 new countries and 6 new states. Unfortunately, I know I probably won’t have time to write about every trip I took in 2018 at this point. Two of these trips were just too epic not to write about. Better late than never, right?
For my week-long summer trip, I decided to go to Ireland.
Why Ireland?
First of all, I thought I would be traveling alone. Ireland is a very safe country, and they speak my native English. I’ve never been abroad alone, and wanted to go somewhere I could enjoy myself instead of dealing with the whole mess of communication/safety issues.
Secondly, good weather. As my summer trip usually falls near the end of June, choosing somewhere that isn’t a million degrees is always a must. I did encounter Ireland’s hottest day in 56 years while visiting (83 degrees). Though you’ll hear me complain about it later, it wasn’t intolerable. I found it was much better to go during the summer than in the other seasons when Ireland tends to be cold and rainy.
Thirdly.. castles! Who doesn’t love castles? I wanted to see all of them! And they are everywhere here!
And lastly, being from the Appalachian Mountains, a large part of my ancestry lies here. I really adored seeing where my ancestors lived- where my family- thus, a part of me began.
Half-Solo
Turns out I didn’t end up doing my whole trip alone. An ex-boyfriend-turned-friend and fellow pharmacist ended up doing part of the trip with me. He is a world-traveler himself (the man is in a different country basically every weekend.. *eye roll*) so I knew I would have a good companion. Plus, it had been years since we’d caught up, and what a better way to do so than in such a lovely little corner of the world? He joined me for 3 days, as he had to get back to work on base in Germany. The rest of the trip I completed solo. I truly enjoyed both portions of the trip. The only difficult thing about traveling solo in Ireland was driving. Driving on the opposite side of the road and getting used to 20,000 roundabouts is no easy feat when you’re so set in your American ways! I was thankful for his extra assistance while on the road. Otherwise, it was a very easy trip for a single gal to manage. Don’t be afraid to go alone!
The Itinerary:
The original plan was to complete a circle starting from Dublin, over to Connemara, down to Dingle, then hitting interesting places back to Dublin (quite a few castles, estates, etc. along this route). As you can see here, with enough time and correct planning, this would probably be the best route.
Planned Route:
With Chase’s tight schedule, and my poor driving skills in big cities (Dublin!), I decided after dropping him off at the airport to go back up to Connemara where it would be easier and much more fun to explore (after realizing I’d had all of Dublin I really wanted), then head back past Dublin to Powerscourt, where I really wanted to see the waterfall. This way I’d only have to drive into Dublin to stay the night before heading back to the airport. A much more confusing and back-tracking route, but better in the end for me.
Actual Route:
Day 1: Dublin
Dublin is Ireland’s capital. It is a must-see while in Ireland, though I would not recommend spending more than a couple of days here. In retrospect, I wish I’d spent a little more time going to some well-known sites. (We didn’t have much of a chance to explore until the time when most sites were already closed). At the end of the day, it is just another big city in the world. I was much more interested in castles and seeing the beautiful countryside and coast that the western portion of Ireland offered.
We explored by foot, which was easy. Another easy and affordable way to see Dublin is via the Hop-On/Hop-Off bus. Either way you choose to explore, here are a few points of interest you might want to check out:
Sweny’s Pharmacy
- Featured in Ulysses, old pharmacy turned bookstore (two of my loves!)
- Address: 1 Lincoln Pl, Dublin 2, Ireland
Trinity’s Long Room
- The main chamber of the Old Library is the Long Room; at nearly 65 meters in length, it is filled with 200,000 of the Library’s oldest books and is one of the most impressive libraries in the world.
- Address: College Green Dublin 2, Ireland
Dublin Writer’s Museum
- A museum honoring Irish writers and poets, such as William Butler Yeats, George Bernard Shaw, Oscar Wilde, and more.
- Address: 18 Parnell Square N
Croke Park Ericsson Skyline Tour
- 1.5 hours, Are you ready for a 17-story high? Then bring your adventurous spirit (and your camera!) to Croke Park’s Skyline. Located right in the heart of the city, this thrilling rooftop walkway is actually Dublin’s highest open-viewing platform and offers breathtaking panoramic views of Ireland’s vibrant capital from the mountains to the sea.
- 20 euros, best to make reservations
- Address: Croke Park
Ha’penny Bridge
- A famous pedestrian bridge built in 1816. Was still the only pedestrian bridge to cross the Liffey untill 1999.
- Address: Bachelors Walk, North City, Dublin, Ireland
Guinness Warehouse
- See where Guinness is made.. Ireland’s most popular tourist attraction.
- Address: St. James’ Gate, Dublin 8
Glasnevin Cemetery Museum
- Huge cemetery where you can trace your family tree.
- Easiest to get tickets online
- Address: Finglas Road, Dublin 11
St. Patrick’s Cathedral
- Built in 1191, it is the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland. It is the tallest and largest church in Ireland.
- Admission: 6- 17 euros
- Address: St Patrick’s Close, Wood Quay, Dublin 8
Dublin Castle
- Erected in the early thirteenth century, Dublin Castle served for centuries as the headquarters of English, and later British, administration in Ireland. In 1922, following Ireland’s independence, Dublin Castle was handed over to the new Irish government. It is now a major government complex and a key tourist attraction.
- Self-guided: 7 euros, guided: 10 euros & around 70 minutes
- Address: Dame St, Dublin 2
After we walked around town, making stops at St. Stephen’s Green (basically Dublin’s version of Central Park), Dublin Castle, and St. Patrick’s Cathedral, we made our way to The Riddler Restaurant, located near the old Dublin Wall. It was a modern restaurant with some nice dishes.
Post-dinner we walked around the waterfront, then found ourselves near the Temple Bar. This little section of town is really lively and full of people around dusk. Definitely provided an upbeat Irish feel. Instead of going in the Temple Bar (long line), we hopped to a few different pubs. I wish I could remember the names of all of them, but I didn’t write them down! Fitsimmon’s Bar is a multi-story bar. The bottom of it was packed, one of the floors had some interesting dance music going on, and the top floor had an outdoor rooftop section that was very nice.
Day 2: Galway, Cliffs of Moher, Dingle
The next morning on our way to the Cliffs of Moher, we stopped in Galway (~2 hours from Dublin) to see where my ancestors lived, for a bit of sightseeing, and some lunch. Galway ended up being one of my favorite Irish city. It was beautiful, not overcrowded, and had some lively streets (Irish river dancing on display). It also had some great food. The fish and chips at Cooke’s was very delicious!
The Cliffs of Moher are absolutely stunning. Though a bit crowded, and a bit of a drive from Dublin (~3 hours), they are an absolute must-see when in Ireland. Spend a few hours here and just let your mind be blown with the beauty of nature. It’s so much bigger and breathtaking than pictures allow.
Dingle was the second favorite place I visited in Ireland. It’s located on the south-western coast of Ireland. It is small, but very colorful, and full of charm. We arrived here at dusk. The drive itself was gorgeous. You’ll go through a lot of mountainside, with goats along the road, and rolling green hills. This part of it actually reminded me of Tennessee. We had a bit of time to explore the town, grab a wonderful coastal dinner at Out of the Blue, and see some true Irish dancing while drinking Guinness at The Dingle Pub. Dingle is the place to go if you are looking for a true Irish experience away from the hustle and bustle of big city life. Chase and I actually witnessed a sheep giving birth to two babies outside of our B & B’s window.. I mean how much more Irish can you get?
Day 3: Ross Castle
After having a nice breakfast at our B & B, Ann Capall Dubh, we made our way to Kerry. On the way there, we stopped to take pictures at Inch Beach, located on the Dingle peninsula. It was beautiful and empty.
We made on way onwards to Ross Castle in Killarney. This was a beautiful little serene spot. We took a tour that told about the history and the architecture of the castle, which was pretty interesting. The castle is in Killarney National Park. We didn’t have time to explore the other areas, but there’s a waterfall, Muckross Estate, and supposedly nice places to hike there. Look at the rainbow over the castle.. lovely!
I had to depart with Chase at Kerry Airport (teeniest airport I’ve ever seen), to make my way towards Cork. I found a cemetery off the side of the road en route, so of course I had to pull off and explore. I’m weird and love cemeteries. This one was the Macroom Cemetery.
I arrived at Cork! Here’s a picture of my adorable little rental car, and the next place I was to lay and rest my head that night.
As soon as I arrived in Cork, I was excited to explore. I went through Fitzgerald Park, across the bridge, and to the old jail (Cork City Gaol).
Then I made my way back through town to University College Cork. I know you’re thinking.. who wants to see a university on vacation? But it’s just gorgeous.. looks like Hogwarts! You can also see the whole city from the parking lot.
I made my way to dinner (fish and chips again because it’s just that good and you have to while in Ireland), then explored downtown. From downtown, I took the course of the waterfront back to the place I was staying. On the way there, I saw the most beautiful house. While taking a picture of it, the owner, Sean, pulled in his driveway. He was the sweetest Irish man who had completely restored this house. He invited me in, showed me pictures of what it looked like before, and we discussed everything from family to politics to my own old house restoration. I just love the Irish people. So friendly.
Day 4: Blarney Castle, Rock of Cashel, & Clifden
Another place you have to visit while in Ireland? The Blarney Castle/Blarney Stone. Give yourself quite a few hours to visit here, as the grounds are pretty large, and the line to go up to kiss the stone can take over an hour to get through alone. To kiss the stone, you have to form a line through the castle, go up narrow winding stairs, then walk along the top of the castle walls (they’re enclosed, but a little scary). They have someone at the top who will help reach you back, grab onto the bars, and kiss the stone for good luck! Lord knows I need to be gifted with eloquence, so I did it. I’m glad of it at the end of the day, though if you watch the video of me, I was shaking! haha Heights are NOT my thing. I lived. You’ll live too. Just do it.
Next stop: Rock of Cashel. First of all, have cash. Cash to park, then to tour the grounds. If you don’t have cash to get out of the parking lot, good luck finding it in the town. There are no small bills to be found. I finally found a shop that was willing to sell me a postcard to where I could get change. Anyway.. traditional Irish ruins. You’ll be blown away as you come into the town and you see the stone walls and round tower on a hill. The graveyard overlooking all the rolling fields below are a site to see when you go in. I have to admit, I don’t fully understand the history, but I appreciated the experience nonetheless.
Clifden (there’s two.. the one in Galway) was my favorite town in Ireland. Natural beauty abounds. It is a coastal town with ruins of castles dotting the shore. It is often referred to as “the capital of Connemara” because it is so close to Connemara National Park. Connemara was dubbed the place of “savage beauty” by Oscar Wilde. You must go to experience how truly beautiful the western portion of Ireland is. Clifden only has a population of about 2,000 people, but you’ll find quite a few charming shops and good restaurants in the circular city center. As I made my way into town, I wandered through the streets, then found one of my favorite restaurants in Ireland. It just so happened to be an Indian restaurant, Basmati. This place was so good I ate there twice.
Day 5: Kylemore Abbey, Renvyle Beach, Connemara National Park, Sky Road, & Clifden Castle
Kylemore! One of my favorite places. I dubbed it “The Biltmore of Ireland”.. haha Much like Biltmore, it has a ton of land (1,000 acres), and functions basically as its own village. It has its own church, Victorian gardens, mausoleum, restaurant, and gift shops. I love the story behind it. A man named Mitchell Henry took his wife, Margaret, to Ireland on their honeymoon back in the 1840’s. At the time, a small hunting lodge was on the the land Kylemore now occupies. Margaret fell in love with the area. Mitchell then bought the land and planned for the extravagant house to be built on the grounds for her. After her death, he had the church built as a lasting testament to his love for her. SO sweet, right? No one would do that these days.. haha But anyway, the Benedictine nuns now occupy Kylemore. They have lived there since 1920 (lucky nuns). Quite a marvelous and interesting place that I would HIGHLY recommend visiting.
Next, I had planned to hike, but I was BURNING UP. I hadn’t expected Ireland to be so hot, but walking all over Kylemore had me parched and exhausted. Good thing I was near a beach and had a swimsuit in my trunk. I made my way to Renvyle Beach. I love the beaches in Ireland because they are generally unexpected. You’re driving through these vibrant green hills, with sheep everywhere, make a left hand turn, and there’s more green with a random beach beneath, mountains in the background. It was beautiful. I stayed there for quite some time, just relaxing and taking it all in.
Then I gained my strength and decided to do a hike in Connemara on the hottest day in Ireland in 56 years. Holy cow. I thought I was going to have to strip down to my bikini for this. haha This was Diamond Head Trail. Not a bad hike. If you don’t feel like going all the way up, the views from 2/3 of the way are just as nice. I didn’t do the loop that takes you around instead of up, either, as I was happy with the views and the hike I had completed.
To end the day I decided to take a drive on Sky Road in Clifden. Gorgeous views of the coast, but what a ride! Haha First of all, just pray you don’t run into any other cars, as there’s only enough room on the road for one with very few places to turn around. Parts of the road are also a little rough, so you might have a bit of a bumpy ride. It was still totally worth it. Look at these views!
Sky Road will lead you to my favorite castle, Clifden Castle. It was owned by the man who founded Clifden way back in 1750. At his death, it was handed down to his descendants. The potato famine hit, and many buildings were abandoned, sold, or burned. (Many Irish moved during this time, or took all the contents of a house out to use or to sell for food). Unfortunately Clifden Castle was left abandoned and entered into a state of ruin. Though dangerous to enter the castle, you can still get close enough to see where all the rooms were. To get to the Castle, there is a sign and a small gravel parking lot. You walk onwards through the middle of a fenced-in cow field (mind your feet), and in about 10 minutes, you’ll reach the Castle. Crows now inhabit it. Though eerie, it is stunning.
Day 6: Powerscourt Waterfall
On my last full day in Ireland, I make it back towards Dublin towards Powerscourt Waterfall. It is Ireland’s highest waterfall at 397 ft tall. For adults, it costs 6 euros to enter. The walk to the waterfall could hardly be called a “walk”. Upon entering the parking lot, you follow a paved path for maybe 3 minutes and you’ve arrived! There is a nice little snack shack at the parking lot if you’re low on fuel, or if you want to have a picnic down by the falls. The waterfall was beautiful and worth the drive.
Day 7: Dublin/ Home
After spending the night in Dublin, I returned my cute little rental car unscathed (only God knows what a miracle that was.Well.. God and Chase. haha) Then hopped on a plane and made my way back to the States.
Ireland was one of those places I’ve always dreamed about visiting, and it did not disappoint! I did learn that sometimes the most beautiful places (Clifden, Dingle) are not the most talked about. If you’re about to venture to Ireland, I would suggest checking out the West coast instead of the more populated Eastern areas like Cork and Dublin. There is where you’ll find Ireland’s true beauty.
Other Tips:
- Get a rental.. and practice driving it around the rental place for a bit if you can. This was the scariest part of the trip for me. I could not get used to traffic roundabouts/ lights/ customs in cities, especially at first. It is not easy to drive in Ireland.. BUT that’s the one way you’re going to get to experience all of Ireland.
- You’ll need toll money. So many toll roads. I’m bad about just using my credit card everywhere, but you’ll need actual cash for this.
- If you don’t have a chip credit card, get one. My bank hadn’t issued me a new card and I couldn’t use it in so many places. Thankfully I had another credit card with a chip in it.
- If you’re going in the summer, realize a lot of places don’t have air conditioning. Bring cool clothing/ pajamas, or double check your hotel has a/c before booking if this is important to you.
bedtravels 